Three status lights tell you the controller’s state at a glance — from across a plant room, without opening the app or touching the display.
From left to right:
| Light | Answers |
|---|---|
| Power | Is it powered properly? |
| WiFi | Is it connected? |
| Health | Is anything wrong? |
Each light answers only its own question. A wireless device that drops out is a health problem, not a WiFi one; a low supply is a power problem, even though it makes devices drop out.
All three share one clock, so blinks line up and the housing reads as one state rather than three lights competing for attention.
Color says what kind of state it is.
| Color | Means |
|---|---|
| Green | Good |
| Amber | Needs attention |
| Red | Fault |
| Blue | A person is connected locally, or the unit is waiting to be set up |
| White | A firmware update is running |
| Off | Offline by choice — WiFi light only |
The pattern says how urgent it is.
| Pattern | Looks like | Means |
|---|---|---|
| Solid | Steady | A settled state |
| Breathe | A slow fade in and out, about 3 seconds | Alive and well — the all-clear heartbeat |
| Slow blink | On and off, once a second | Needs attention, or something is in progress |
| Fast blink | On and off, three times a second | Act now — only ever red |
| Double pulse | Two quick blips, then a pause | Something happened and is now over |
| Dropout | Steady, with brief gaps | Something that should be there is missing |
A moving light wants attention; a still one is being handled. Red states always blink or drop out, and green states are always solid or breathing — so the lights can be read by pattern alone, without relying on telling red from green.
Every time the controller powers on or restarts, the lights play a short start-up sequence:
The rainbow also proves every color in every light works — a light that stays dark or shows the wrong color during the sweep is faulty.
If the rainbow does not settle within about a minute, start-up has stalled: the Health light switches to red, fast blink. Restart the controller, and contact support if it happens again.
After settling, control modes spend up to 30 seconds waiting for their devices — see Starting Up. No device alarms are raised in that time, so Health shows its normal state.
What the alarms say. The first matching row wins.
| Light | Means | Do |
|---|---|---|
| 🔴 Fast blink | A severe alarm is active and nobody has acknowledged it — or start-up has stalled | Open the alarm list now |
| 🔴 Dropout | An expected device is missing — wired, IO-Link, or wireless | Check that device’s power and connection — see Device Disconnected (100) |
| 🔴 Solid | A severe alarm is active and has been acknowledged | Someone knows; the problem is still there |
| 🟠 Slow blink | A warning is active and nobody has acknowledged it | Open the alarm list |
| 🟠 Solid | A warning is active and has been acknowledged | Someone knows; the problem is still there |
| 🔴 or 🟠 Double pulse | An alarm has cleared but nobody has acknowledged it — red if it was severe, amber if it was a warning | Review it in the history, then acknowledge |
| 🟢 Breathe | All clear | Nothing to do |
See Alarms for acknowledging.
The controller’s own connection — to the site’s WiFi, to Inteliverse, and to a phone during setup. The first matching row wins.
| Light | Means | Do |
|---|---|---|
| ⚪ Slow blink | A firmware update is running | Leave it — it restarts by itself when done |
| 🔵 Solid | A phone or tablet is connected to the controller | Someone is working on it |
| 🔵 Slow blink | Not set up yet | Run setup — see Starting Up |
| 🔴 Slow blink | Can’t join the site WiFi | Check the router and the WiFi password |
| 🟠 Slow blink | On WiFi, but can’t reach Inteliverse | Check the site’s internet — Settings → Networking → Network Info shows which step fails |
| 🟢 Slow blink | Reaching Inteliverse, but not added to an account yet | Add it to your account in the app |
| 🟢 Solid | Online, reporting, and added to an account | Nothing to do |
| ⚫ Off | Set up to run without the cloud | Nothing to do — offline by choice |
The controller’s input supply, and the supplies it provides to devices.
| Light | Means | Do |
|---|---|---|
| 🔴 Fast blink | Input power is low — below about 18 V on a 24 V supply | Fix the supply — see Power Fault (600) |
| 🟠 Slow blink | Input power is fine, but a supply the controller provides has faulted — the Modbus bus supply or an IO-Link port’s sensor supply | Check for a short or overload on the device wiring — see Modbus Supply Fault (620) or IO-Link Supply Short (610) |
| 🟢 Solid | All good | Nothing to do |
Diagnose power first. A power fault cuts the Modbus bus supply, which makes healthy sensors look disconnected and healthy loops look broken. Fixing the supply often clears several alarms at once.
| Power | WiFi | Health | What it means |
|---|---|---|---|
| 🟢 Solid | 🟢 Solid | 🟢 Breathe | Healthy, online, and reporting |
| 🟢 Solid | ⚫ Off | 🟢 Breathe | Healthy and running offline by choice |
| 🔴 Fast blink | any | any | Power fault — fix it first; other alarms are probably consequences |
| 🟢 Solid | 🟢 Solid | 🔴 Dropout | A device has dropped off — the controller itself is fine |
| 🟠 Slow blink | any | 🔴 Dropout | A device supply has faulted — the devices it feeds have dropped with it |
| 🟢 Solid | 🟠 Slow blink | 🟢 Breathe | Controlling normally, but not reporting to the cloud |
| 🟢 Solid | 🔵 Slow blink | 🟢 Breathe | A healthy new unit waiting to be set up |
| any | any | 🔴 or 🟠 Double pulse | Something happened while no one was looking — check the history |
| 🌈 Rainbow | 🌈 Rainbow | 🌈 Rainbow | Starting up |